The Irony of Dry Cleaning

Not actually dry as the names implies, dry cleaning is a wet process.   Clothes are washed with a non-polar solvent instead of water. The solvent interacts differently with fibers than water in that there is no swelling, bleeding of dye, or shrinking of the fibers.

The Nitty Gritty

After garments are tagged and inspected, if there are stains they are pre-treated with the solvent, and air pressure or steam is applied to the stain with a tool that looks like an airbrush.  A "spotting board" is the equipment that the garment is placed on to be pre-treated. After the stain is blown out with steam, it is vacuumed away with air.

The machines used for drycleaning are huge and resemble a standard washing machine. They can hold 50 lbs of clothes.  Tanks with the solvents are located under the machines. The washing and drying happen in the same machine. Solvent is removed in the process from the clothes through the spinning cycle with warm air. Clothes come out of the machine dry.

The dirty solvent is continually filtered. The solvents don’t leave the machine. They are passed through several different filtration systems and recycled back into a tank at the bottom of the machine to be reused. 

The last stage is steaming or ironing on garment forms or ironing beds. Garments are steamed and pressed, or air is vacuumed through the garment depending on the garment type. “Form finishers” are specialized forms like mannequins for shirts and jackets that help keep their original shape. Large steaming beds with covers are used for some garments. So pressing results are far more professional than can be achieved at home.

Sweaters get special treatment. Sweater boards are large tables with a grid of small holes that steam and vacuum through the table at the same time. Sweaters are laid out on the table and hand brushed during this process and finished off by de-pilling.

Dry cleaning today is different than dry cleaning of decades past. PERC (Perchloroethylene) no longer is the dominant solvent used in the process thanks to stricter environmental regulations. The process is also more energy-efficient and automated than it was decades ago.  Dry cleaning today in the computerized machines also uses less solvent. Smart technology has introduced the ability through sensors to detect fabric type, load weight, and soil level to automatically adjust the cleaning cycle, solvent amount, and drying time.  This feature extends the life of garments by preventing over-washing.

A Range of Solvents

The late 1990’s to early 2000’s brought a shift to safer and greener solvents.

Perchloroethylene, commonly known as Perc, (also known as tetrachloroethylene) was the most widely used solvent worldwide in dry cleaning. It is a volatile organic compound (VOC ), which means it easily evaporates into the air. Perc is non-flammable and has the ability to effectively remove stains without damaging delicate fabrics. It could be used on both natural and synthetic fabrics. Perc could be combined with other dry-cleaning detergents to enhance its cleaning power.

However, it was found to be highly toxic and damaging to the environment. Prolonged exposure to inhaling Perc could cause kidney and liver disorders, cancer, and cardiac issues, making it a hazard for workers using the solvent.  Historically, many dry-cleaners did not properly dispose of Perc and contaminated soil and water supplies. It was labeled a PBT. Small amounts are retained by recently drycleaned clothing.

The EPA has banned the use of Perc in any machines purchased or leased from June 16, 2025, onward.  As those facilities still using Perc are phased out and transitioned by decommissioning, converting or replacing equipment to operate on alternative solvents, there is an absolute prohibition on all Perc use in dry cleaning by December 2034.

Hydrocarbon is used in some cases with soap, and mechanical action.  Hydrocarbons are organic compounds containing only carbon and hydrogen.  They are considered low toxicity.  There are a broad range of hydrocarbons because their structure can be simple or complex.  Hydrocarbons occur naturally in plants and animals. It can also be synthesized in a laboratory. The hydrocarbons used in dry-cleaning solvents are derived from petroleum.  Generally, they have been found to be safe when tested, but due to the diverse products in the category of hydrocarbons, there is concern that some may contain benzene or other hazardous substances added, so integrity of test results are limited to the specific product tested. It is also highly flammable posing worker exposure concerns if the solvent is spilled or not handled carefully. Petroleum Spirits- or Petroleum Ether is one of the hydrocarbon solvents used in dry-cleaning.

Trichloroethylene (TCE) is another hydrocarbon solvent used in dry-cleaning. TCE is mostly used now as a spot stain remover, as it was found to dissolve some dyes.  (It is also used to remove the grease and lanolin from wool before weaving.) TCE is considered one of the least toxic chlorinated hydrocarbons.  It is a man-made chemical that is colorless and smells sweet.  It is an effective cleaning solvent.  In the food industry, it is used to de-caffeinate coffee.

Siloxane (D5) a "green" solution used in GreenEarth cleaning.  It is an odorless and colorless liquid, a type of emollient, that is used as an ingredient in many personal care products and industrial cleaning. Comprised of silicone and oxygen atoms. It is used in deodorants, lipsticks, make-up, hair spray, shampoos, and body lotions beside its industrial use as a dry-cleaning solvent.

What it Means to be Green

Dry cleaners which have Green Business Certification, an eco-certification, have been independently verified and audited against globally recognized standards in various areas and levels that evaluate sustainability, such as the use of renewable energy, the adoption of eco-friendly technologies, the implementation of green procurement policies, and the promotion of environmental awareness among employees and customers.

Criteria assessed for this certification include energy efficiency, waste management, water conservation, pollution prevention, sustainable sourcing, and employee engagement.

The last 20 years smart technology has revolutionized the industry

RFID (Radio Frequency Identification) is another advancement in modern dry-cleaning. Each garment is tagged with a microchip which improves tracking, sorting, and delivery logistics. It can even give customers status updates.

Modern dry-cleaners are focusing on added services and super conveniences. Premium and specialized services available and offered today such as sneaker restoration, handbag and shoe cleaning keep it a viable industry.   24 hour pick-up and drop off is available at some dry-cleaners. Here in NYC, at J's Cleaners you can even take advantage of self-service drop off and pick up at their 24 hour kiosk.

Dry cleaning still has a place in our world.  It’s an industry that has changed with the times and provides benefits and services that can't be done at home.